The most engineered garment women wear is also the one most often worn incorrectly, said Susan Nethero, one of the top bra fit experts in the country and a representative of Intimacy, a store that prides itself on finding women the right fit for their bras.
Eighty-five percent of women are wearing the wrong bra size, and this is the foundation of the Intimacy: Bra Fitting Specialists chain. Nethero said professional fittings are the best way for a woman to know her correct bra size. While there is a formula for women to measure themselves, it often does not work out as well, Nethero said.
"Most women have difficulty knowing where to measure and can't do it alone - plus it is a complicated formula," Nethero said. "We believe that the measure only tells the distance and doesn't tell what the landscape is like - narrow and full or full and small? It's fraught with errors."
Kristen Hardin is the store manager for the third, and newest, Intimacy store in Chicago. She said the biggest mistake women make is wanting their bras to be loose. Women equate a loose bra with comfort, she said, and this is how many mistakes happen when choosing a bra.
"Women often think in order to be more comfortable in a bra they should buy a larger back size than what they really are," Hardin said. "It is really the exact opposite; a firm-fitting bra will be more comfortable. It will ride with your skin as you move throughout the day instead of being so loose that it will be shifting on your body frame. You will find yourself tugging at your bra constantly readjusting a loose-fitting bra; this is irritating to you and your body, not to mention embarrassing. A firm-fitting bra should give you a feeling of security, like being held and supported."
Nethero said she agreed. When she explains this common mistake to women, she describes it as a "see-saw" effect.
"[A bra] needs to fit firmly in order to lift," Nethero said. "The bra back needs to be level front to back across the bodice. If the bra back is too large then the bust falls down. It's like a see-saw. If it's up in the back (producing back fat) then you fall down in the front (sagging droopy breasts). It's simple, yet it's difficult to grasp until you see the difference."
Hardin explained that most of the issues women have with their bras are a result of simply not being educated on the subject.
"Most women are never really explained or educated on bra sizing and fit, this is why it is very beneficial to have a professional fitting," Hardin said. "Many assume that they are the same size for most of their adult life, when in reality the average woman changes sizes at least six times as an adult."
Still, Hardin said women who know the benefits of a professional fitting are embarrassed to see it through.
"In many cases, women are shy or embarrassed to approach a sales associate and ask for a professional bra fitting," Hardin said. "Some are afraid to step outside of their comfort zone and undress with another woman in the room. Others are afraid to hear what bra size they actually should be wearing."
Nethero's advice to these women is to get over being shy. The benefits, she said, outweigh the embarrassment.
"Turn your back to the fitter when she's fitting you until your new style is on the body, then turn around and let her tell you about the fit of that size and style," Nethero said. "This way you learn the most ... Before long you'll find that you are so engaged in what you're learning that you forget about any embarrassment."
Nethero also said it is important to view the purchase of a new bra in the same way you would a new pair of shoes.
"Remember that the bra is firm and strong when it is brand new," Nethero said. "If you buy a bra that is comfortable to start, it will be stretched with wear and care and then it will shift on your body and ride up your back. Think shoes. Buy them firm to start so as they break in they will be comfortable."
Hardin also said she believes it is important to realize what an investment the right bra can be, and to take care of it and protect your investment.
"A great fitting quality bra will change the way you look and your clothing fits," Hardin said. "You should have at least seven to 10 great-fitting bras in your wardrobe that you rotate and care for properly. By washing your bras in cold water either by hand or on delicate cycle in a lingerie bag with a mild detergent can double the lifespan of your bras."
Hardin said finding the right bra for a woman can change more than just the look of her cleavage.
"We find that fitting women in the correct bra size allows them to feel better and look better not only on the outside but on the inside as well," she said.
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