Fifteen seconds is all it took for a Ball State student to climb a rock wall in a national competition.
Lane Sipahimalani started rock climbing nine years ago during his time in Boy Scouts.
"We took a trip to Dick's Sporting Goods, and after one time, I was hooked," the freshman architecture major said.
Jared Hancock was Sipahimalani's first climbing coach and mentor. He said Sipahimalani's climbing style is fluid and patient.
"A large part of what separated Lane from the others was his positive attitude," Hancock said. "It translated extremely well to the rock and greatly accelerated his already fast learning curve. He was competitive, yet calm, and it was obvious that climbing was fun."
Hancock said when he worked with Sipahimalani, he had "route-reading skills far beyond his experience level." It didn't take long for Sipahimalani to reach a higher ability level than his coaches, Hancock said.
"Lane possessed a problem-solving skill that enabled him to ‘be one with the rock' rather than beat it into submission," Hancock said. "He could quickly find the ideal sequence of moves that was the most efficient way up the wall.
"It was like watching a monkey climb. His movements didn't require any thought they just flowed naturally, and it was always a pleasure to watch. No climb or problem was too difficult with that ideal combination of talent, skills and attitude."
Sipahimalani said his shorter height can be beneficial at times and a disadvantage at others. However, he said that training is his biggest challenge.
"The most challenging part for me is forcing myself to go in and train," Sipahimalani said. "Here at Ball State, there is nobody that really trains for competitions."
He said one of the misconceptions about rock climbing is that it's all about speed. He said it is more about how difficult the climb is.
"There is actually a lot involved with your legs," Sipahimalani said. "Most people think it's all in your upper body, but it's really not."
As far as recognitions go, Sipahimalani has finished in the top 10 at nationals a few times. He said one of his fastest times was at nationals, where he climbed the speed wall in 15 seconds.
"Climbing is different for everybody," Sipahimalani said. "Just the way you get up the wall can be different for someone who's short and someone who's tall. I just like the uniqueness of it."
Sipahimalani said he is not climbing as much right now because of his schoolwork and the time it requires. However, he usually finds time in his schedule to climb once or twice a week.
As far as the future goes, Sipahimalani said he plans on climbing recreationally while participating in a few competitions. He said there is a place in Spain he finds beautiful that he would like to climb someday.
"My motivation is just making it to the competitions and getting to see people I do not see often," he said.
Sipahimalani also has a job at the Student Recreation and Wellness Center working at the rock wall.
Senior geology major Blaine Limpus is Sipahimalani's co-worker at the rock wall. Limpus said he has always looked up to Sipahimalani and his ability to climb.
"I met Lane back when I first started climbing," Limpus said. "I remember watching him work this crazy overhung wall and was blown away. I am constantly learning things from Lane. He is a phenomenal climber."
Sipahimalani is not the only member of his family into rock climbing. He has a twin brother, Neal, who also climbs.
"[Neal and I] both got started at the same time," Sipahimalani said. "We used that to our advantage and pushed each other. Neal and I go to all the competitions together and that's always a good time."
Neal Sipahimalani said his brother is a great climber and for the most part, they are equal in skill.
"Being twins helps push us, since we are naturally competitive as brothers," Neal Sipahimalani said. "We are always trying to edge the other one out at competitions or just hanging out at the gym. It makes climbing together more fun and interesting when you have someone to always push you to the next level."
Hancock said it was evident from their first climbs that the two brothers were naturals. He remembers when Lane Sipahimalani wanted to practice falling from an overhanging wall.
"I remember both of them letting go of the holds near the top and pushing themselves away from the rock to avoid smacking into the cliff on the way down," Hancock said. "As he plummeted through the air, Lane was relaxed and calm. After falling 20 or 30 feet, the rope caught him, and he asked to do it again, but bigger. I knew from that moment that he would be destined for greatness."
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