Femme fifties

From sweeping skirts to sophisticated stilettoes, the flirty styles of the 1950s return

During World War II, the Federal War Production of the United States put regulations on textiles, lengths and designs for clothing so the soldiers would have proper and adequate amounts of fabric for uniforms. This caused the fashion industry to come to a halt.

Gary Stephens, a graduate assistant of the Ball State University Beeman Historic Costume Collection said, war will always have that influence on clothing, whether it is recognizable or not. World War II introduced synthetic fabrics to the nation, which are used frequently today.

"In the late 50s, it was the first time in history that teenagers and young adults adopted their own style and did not dress like their parents," Stephens said.

While European, East and West Coast runways gained popularity amongst the rich, an artist from Fairmount, Ind., by the name of James Dean became the face of the youth. Men wanted to be him, while women desired to be the girl of his dreams. Stephens said Dean influenced the rebellion look for the "bad boys and girls" in the late 50s, from tight, pencil-fitting skirts and small cardigans to pedal-pushers and plain, white T-shirts. Along with pointed-toe stilettoes, which quickly became the choice of footwear, Stephens said.

Christian Dior brought life to the full skirt with crinolines, while Chanel came out with the loosely fitted suits and sheep dresses, Stephens said. It was considered improper for ladies to show their hands, so gloves were imperative for every outfit. Stephens said these looks were popular with the "good kids."

Diana Saiki, Curator of the Ball State University Beeman Historic Costume Collection, said students today are influenced by a variety of sources. She said now movie stars have a huge impact on what is considered trendy by the younger generations.

"Now, we have the Internet and travel is much easier," Saiki said. "This gives us the ability to influence each other from foreign places and study the trends from different cultures."

Saiki said students fashion today is more casual and comfortable than it was 50 years ago.

"Women were not allowed to wear pants to school until the late 60s," Saiki, "They dressed up a lot more. Men wore suits all the time which were mostly grey, and women wore fancy hats and gloves everywhere."

As for fashion in the new year, Stephens said that full skirts and cardigans are back in for the "good girls" and stilettoes are replacing chunky boots. The "bad girls" of today have more of an alternative look. They combine looks from the 80s with track jackets and soccer shoes. They like their vintage clothing instead of new threads.

Saiki said we are living in a conservative country, and the war has calmed down our dramatic and revealing choices in clothing. Fashion tends to come back in one way or another.

"Every time fashion comes back, it is tailored better for the present," Stephens said.


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